SIMONE HILLER - the collections1
Dresses and soft layers, from Euskirchen

A dress that works on a Tuesday, a layer that works over it

The shop is built for ordinary weeks: four dresses that survive a commute and a dinner, and four soft layers that go over them without bulk. An apricot sweater dress, a floral mini, a blue velour mini and a navy plaid skater; then lace, shirring and a pink V-neck. Everything is washed once before it is photographed, so the colour you see is the colour after its first wash.

SIMONE HILLER - the rails2
The soft layer

A layer should not add a shape of its own

Four tops cut close enough to sit under a dress and warm enough to wear alone: a beige turtle lace, a brown shirred sleeve, a deep green ruched top and a pink lace-trim V-neck. Each is knitted on a mid-gauge machine, folded flat rather than hung, and checked at the cuff so the rib recovers after a day of wear.

Four dresses, four layers
Washed before it is photographed
Cuff checked by hand
Packed in Euskirchen

A rail and a drawer

The dresses hang on a rail at eye level, the layers live in a drawer below it, and the two were chosen so that any layer can go under any dress. A size run is measured on a body rather than a form, and the note on each card says which dress a layer was tested with. Eight pieces is enough for a working week, and short enough that every one of them can be checked properly before it is sent.

Washed before it is photographed

What the edit is for

Every piece is washed once at thirty degrees before it is photographed, because a viscose that shrinks will shrink in your machine too and the photograph should show the version you will actually own. Colour is checked against a card after that wash, and anything that moved more than a shade is re-dyed or dropped. The velour is brushed in one direction before packing so the pile lies flat in the box, and the lace trim is pulled gently at the seam to make sure it is stitched through and not merely laid on top.

Cuff, hem, seam

SIMONE HILLER - how a garment is checked

Cuffs are stretched over a wrist and released, and the ones that do not come back to shape are re-knitted. Hems are levelled on a body rather than a table, because a bias panel hangs differently once it is worn. Seams are pressed open and then checked from the inside, since a seam that has been overlocked too tightly will pull the surface into a ridge after the second wash. The soft layers are folded flat in tissue, never hung, so the shoulder does not grow in the wardrobe.

What the edit is for

Clothes for a real week

The four dresses were chosen for the days that are not occasions: a Tuesday with a commute and a dinner at the end of it, a Saturday with a market and a train. The layers were chosen to sit under them without adding a shape, which is why they are fine, close and plain. The palette stays inside teal, coral and cream so that a navy plaid can be worn with an apricot dress and a pink V-neck in the same week without a single decision going wrong at seven in the morning.

The drawer in use

The apricot sweater dress over the beige turtle lace, the collar sitting just above the neckline and the sleeve hidden so the dress keeps its line. The layer is fine enough that the dress does not pull across the chest, which is what the size run on a body was for.

See every layer →

Before it is posted

01

Size run on a body

Every dress is measured on a person as well as a form, and the card states the shoulder, the chest and the finished length in centimetres.

02

Folded, never hung

The soft layers travel flat in tissue so the shoulder keeps its line, and the dresses are folded along the bias with the hem supported.

03

A real answer on sizing

Ask whether a layer will sit under the velour dress and the reply is the chest measurement of both, not a suggestion to take the larger one.